Long Range Shooting!

[gelhaargerald]

I don't really have a long-range rig but for me anything over 300 yards is pretty long living in Iowa. I would like to do some shooting around 500 yards as it warms up a little. The farm I bought has a few decent spots to do it.

MOA or MRAD?

First Focal Plane or Second?

Best Value Scope under $500?

Best free app for ballistics?

Most likely doing a Audad hunt in October with the FE crew, well I am on the list so hopefully I get a spot. I will bring down a 2001 time frame Tikka T3 in the lords caliber. It has the factory stock, Bushnell 3200 Elite with the BDC scope (have ran it out to 300 a long time ago and the scope worked well for that) and it isn't threaded for a suppressor.

What changes could or would you do to that gun to make it deadlier than it is? For the most part I have been a bow hunter for the last 20 years but I am not snobby and have zero problem killing stuff with rifles, specially when it is the first time hunt.

 

[Milo'sSyndicate]

Check this out, grab yourself a chronograph and a buddy who will spot you at 1000m to call where your shots are going. Adjust, adapt, overcome.

https://www.hornady.com/4dof

 

[Dave Eder]

I don't really have a long-range rig but for me anything over 300 yards is pretty long living in Iowa. I would like to do some shooting around 500 yards as it warms up a little. The farm I bought has a few decent spots to do it.

MOA or MRAD?

First Focal Plane or Second?

Best Value Scope under $500?

Best free app for ballistics?

Most likely doing a Audad hunt in October with the FE crew, well I am on the list so hopefully I get a spot. I will bring down a 2001 time frame Tikka T3 in the lords caliber. It has the factory stock, Bushnell 3200 Elite with the BDC scope (have ran it out to 300 a long time ago and the scope worked well for that) and it isn't threaded for a suppressor.

What changes could or would you do to that gun to make it deadlier than it is? For the most part I have been a bow hunter for the last 20 years but I am not snobby and have zero problem killing stuff with rifles, specially when it is the first time hunt.

@Terry Houin ?

 

[jeff]

I don't really have a long-range rig but for me anything over 300 yards is pretty long living in Iowa. I would like to do some shooting around 500 yards as it warms up a little. The farm I bought has a few decent spots to do it.

MOA or MRAD?

First Focal Plane or Second?

Best Value Scope under $500?

Best free app for ballistics?

Most likely doing a Audad hunt in October with the FE crew, well I am on the list so hopefully I get a spot. I will bring down a 2001 time frame Tikka T3 in the lords caliber. It has the factory stock, Bushnell 3200 Elite with the BDC scope (have ran it out to 300 a long time ago and the scope worked well for that) and it isn't threaded for a suppressor.

What changes could or would you do to that gun to make it deadlier than it is? For the most part I have been a bow hunter for the last 20 years but I am not snobby and have zero problem killing stuff with rifles, specially when it is the first time hunt.

MRAD. MOA is gay. But thats ok if thats who you are.

First Focal Plane

Arken / SWFA. < $700

AB Quantum from Applied Ballistics. Easier to me than 4dof. Get/borrow a chronograph. Have to have data.

I say all this as a 100yd shooter working my way out towards 5/600 with my 6 arc. Yes, ask Uncle T.

 

[Milo'sSyndicate]

Watch Midway USA for some deals like this one...Where in Iowa are you at?

 

[gelhaargerald]

Watch Midway USA for some deals like this one...Where in Iowa are you at? View attachment 1929

West of Des Moines.

 

[Rjohnson.307]

I would go with Mils, much easier once you get behind it and start using it.

1st focal if you plan to use hold overs on your reticle, for hunting it needs to be illuminated so you can use it on lower power setting effectively. Stay away from BDC style reticles. 2nd focal is usually less expensive but you'll need to be on max power to utilize the reticle hold overs, which isn't ideal for a hunting rifle.

For a hunting optic stay under 20x on the max, 3-12, 3-15, 4-16, 3-18 etc. are the best power range in my opinion and you'll almost never use the top end.

Its going to be difficult to find an optic that is durable and tracks straight on that budget. I recommend trying to bump it up to $750-1000.

Check out the Vortex Strike Eagle 3-18, it checks alot of the boxes for around $700 street price. I have one on an 18" AR and so far I've been happy with it for the price.

As for you're rifle, put it in a better stock, I recommend Manners and Grayboe.
Upgrade your trigger to a Timney and that is all you'll really need to do if you don't plan to suppress it.

 

[robmcleod82]

As for budget scopes that actually work for that budget I second arken or swfa, had plenty of both and can attest they track. First focal, I prefer a christmas tree style reticle for spotting/correcting for wind, but if its too busy a simpler reticle will work fine if dialing elevation. As for your rifle, i would get it threaded and get a suppressor possible knock a couple inches off the length. The tikka factory trigger is plenty good just swap out the spring for one that allows a lighter pull. Can never go wrong with a manners stock. Make sure you put a 20 moa rail on your rifle so you dont use up a third of your elevation just to get zeroed. Another thing to consider is what type of bipod you want to run, ive got a few but seeing as I am a Neanderthal i keep going back to a harris on an area 419 arca adaptor.

 

[Milo'sSyndicate]

West of Des Moines.

OK, let's start over, using the gear you have; barrel length and twist, figure out the best -06 round to punch paper out to 500-700. The twist ratio and barrel length is where you start with that gun; is it a 22" barrel, 1:10 twist? If so, just enter that into a generic search; Best bullet weight for a 30-06 rifle with 22" barrel and 1:10 twist. Guessing you'll be using factory ammo, or are you getting into hand loading? Get comfortable punching paper at 5-700 yds., with your current rig, then look at actual hunting bullets and see how they print accuracy wise, vs the less expensive stuff you've used to dial in. Save your brass. The TX experience should get you comfortably into that 700-1K pocket, IF you've done your work. I don't own a Tikka, but I hear they are pretty accurate and forgiving, have fun!

 

[Terry Houin]

I don't really have a long-range rig but for me anything over 300 yards is pretty long living in Iowa. I would like to do some shooting around 500 yards as it warms up a little. The farm I bought has a few decent spots to do it.

MOA or MRAD?

First Focal Plane or Second?

Best Value Scope under $500?

Best free app for ballistics?

Most likely doing a Audad hunt in October with the FE crew, well I am on the list so hopefully I get a spot. I will bring down a 2001 time frame Tikka T3 in the lords caliber. It has the factory stock, Bushnell 3200 Elite with the BDC scope (have ran it out to 300 a long time ago and the scope worked well for that) and it isn't threaded for a suppressor.

What changes could or would you do to that gun to make it deadlier than it is? For the most part I have been a bow hunter for the last 20 years but I am not snobby and have zero problem killing stuff with rifles, specially when it is the first time hunt.

Lots to go through here so I’ll make a few responses.

MOA vs MRAD = shooters choice. At the end of the day it’s a number the ballistic solver gives you. Spin the dial or hold the reticle and shoot. Most people that are new to long range opt for MOA as inches are easy for Americans to understand. If you want to get into the Long Range game the MRAD is a little more versatile.

First or Second focal plane - I go with First for a lot of reasons, mostly for my measured reticle being consistent.

Value optic under $500, that’s a tough one for me. I put more money into glass than the rifle. Take a look at our classified section or Gunbroker for a well cared for used option and ask away when you find something interesting.

Lots of good free Apps - Revic, Hornady, Barnes, Geo Ballistics.

Ask away, and please save some money to thread that barrel before Texas

 

[gelhaargerald]

Lots to go through here so I’ll make a few responses.

MOA vs MRAD = shooters choice. At the end of the day it’s a number the ballistic solver gives you. Spin the dial or hold the reticle and shoot. Most people that are new to long range opt for MOA as inches are easy for Americans to understand. If you want to get into the Long Range game the MRAD is a little more versatile.

First or Second focal plane - I go with First for a lot of reasons, mostly for my measured reticle being consistent.

Value optic under $500, that’s a tough one for me. I put more money into glass than the rifle. Take a look at our classified section or Gunbroker for a well cared for used option and ask away when you find something interesting.

Lots of good free Apps - Revic, Hornady, Barnes, Geo Ballistics.

Ask away, and please save some money to thread that barrel before Texas

Thanks for the reply. I will do some digging on gun smiths in Iowa for getting it threaded.

May run down to the farm and see how far I can get my 6.5 to shoot this weekend.

 

[First_Focal_Plane]

As Sensei said, MOA or MRAD is ultimately just a ballistic solution. I would go a step further and say do your research and stick to one. MRAD is easier and faster (to me).

Definitely FFP. Money on good glass has never been a regret. You can make a Ruger American an honest shooter with good glass.

I’d suggest the Leupold Mk5HD 3.6-18. Phenomenal optic for hunting.

I have quite a few apps, but I tend to favor the AB Quantum. Interface is solid and pretty user friendly.

As others have mentioned, get a chronograph so you can input accurate velocity values into your ballistic calculator. You’d be shocked at the variance from what the box suggests.

 

[cameronpaul13]

I don't really have a long-range rig but for me anything over 300 yards is pretty long living in Iowa. I would like to do some shooting around 500 yards as it warms up a little. The farm I bought has a few decent spots to do it.

MOA or MRAD?

First Focal Plane or Second?

Best Value Scope under $500?

Best free app for ballistics?

Most likely doing a Audad hunt in October with the FE crew, well I am on the list so hopefully I get a spot. I will bring down a 2001 time frame Tikka T3 in the lords caliber. It has the factory stock, Bushnell 3200 Elite with the BDC scope (have ran it out to 300 a long time ago and the scope worked well for that) and it isn't threaded for a suppressor.

What changes could or would you do to that gun to make it deadlier than it is? For the most part I have been a bow hunter for the last 20 years but I am not snobby and have zero problem killing stuff with rifles, specially when it is the first time hunt.

Mils, FFP, Arken EP-5 (with discounts and deals, can get it under $500), AB quantum or 4dof

 

[gelhaargerald]

This was today at 420 yards. Not sure if that is long range these days but it was the furthest we could stretch out on my farm. It’s my son’s 5 shot group. He was shooting a 6.5 creedmor Ruger American go wild. It has a VX3 on it. It’s a CDS but we never got the custom dial on it. It’s a MOA so I loaded it in the Hornady ballistic app. Not bad for not knowing what we are doing. He was shooting dead center of both targets. Kid whacked a yote last year at 237 in the back yard with my 300 blackout.

He faired way better than me. I only hit it once with my 6.5 gas gun. It shoots 1” groups at 100.

 

[gelhaargerald]

Started the process for my Tikka 300 win mag.

Ordered an MDT Oryx Chassis

Going to get it threaded.

Scope is up next. Moved the budget to $1,500 ish. I could be wrong on this but I think I want over 14 magnification. I have always liked to zoom in more, I cant remember having a time not being able to find an animal in the scope.

What options should I look at? I don't have a brand loyalty. The only requirement is that Scheels or Cabelas has it because I have some gift cards and such.

 

[safetekk]

Read through all these replies and unless I miss this there's one thing I didn't see mentioned...
Be careful purchasing a used MOA optic. Many of the older ones had MOA turrets with a mil based reticle. While usable, It was the dumbest design ever that required too much Voodoo math but that's what we had at one time. In short, make sure the reticle matches the turrets if buying used.

 

[Al "Shifty" Schultz]

Started the process for my Tikka 300 win mag.

Ordered an MDT Oryx Chassis

Going to get it threaded.

Scope is up next. Moved the budget to $1,500 ish. I could be wrong on this but I think I want over 14 magnification. I have always liked to zoom in more, I cant remember having a time not being able to find an animal in the scope.

What options should I look at? I don't have a brand loyalty. The only requirement is that Scheels or Cabelas has it because I have some gift cards and such.

Check out my discussion on scopes regarding box drills and testing how precise the individual scope's reticle adjustment actually is vs. what each "click" is supposed to do in the Thompson Long Range thread.. I know for some they're not going to like to hear this, but after doing some extensive T-n-E we (my sniper team and I) found that there's not many scopes in the price range that you're looking at that can do the box drills consistently.

About the Cheapest brands that can (and it's dependent upon which model because other products made by these same manufacturers cannot) is the Leupold MK 5 HD but many other Leupold models simply weren't able to do the drill.

Vortex PST and RAZOR

Nightforce ATACR and NXS series

US Optics FDN series

Schmidt and Bender PM II

Weaver Tactical (it's about the only Weaver scope nowadays that can do the box drills)

I'm sure there's some others out there.. but these are some that I actually tested and know can do the box drills precisely.

I've also been impressed with the new Revic Radikl and Acura rifle scopes but I think that they're outside your $1500 mark..

Kahles, Zeiss and Swarovski make good optics too but not all of their models can conduct box drills precisely.. much like Vortex, Leupold, and Weaver.. their cheaper stuff actually is just that... Cheaper.. not an opinion, but proven out by actual T-n-E..

 

[safetekk]

Check out my discussion on scopes regarding box drills and testing how precise the individual scope's reticle adjustment actually is vs. what each "click" is supposed to do in the Thompson Long Range thread.. I know for some they're not going to like to hear this, but after doing some extensive T-n-E we (my sniper team and I) found that there's not many scopes in the price range that you're looking at that can do the box drills consistently.

About the Cheapest brands that can (and it's dependent upon which model because other products made by these same manufacturers cannot) is the Leupold MK 5 HD but many other Leupold models simply weren't able to do the drill.

Vortex PST and RAZOR

Nightforce ATACR and NXS series

US Optics FDN series

Schmidt and Bender PM II

Weaver Tactical (it's about the only Weaver scope nowadays that can do the box drills)

I'm sure there's some others out there.. but these are some that I actually tested and know can do the box drills precisely.

I've also been impressed with the new Revic Radikl and Acura rifle scopes but I think that they're outside your $1500 mark..

Kahles, Zeiss and Swarovski make good optics too but not all of their models can conduct box drills precisely.. much like Vortex, Leupold, and Weaver.. their cheaper stuff actually is just that... Cheaper.. not an opinion, but proven out by actual T-n-E..

I'd probably add to this that you need to be quite cautious trusting box drills if you're new to long range, and shooting Factory ammo. Dispersion is a thing and one MOA ammo could have you chasing your tail thinking your optic is bad. Add shooter error into the mix there are a lot of variables that could point you towards an equipment issue when in fact it's not.

Truth be told I don't do box drills but I do track test my scopes out to 1K yards. I'm far more interested if my elevation is spot on at various distances than if my windage is slightly off. To be fair I'm usually shooting a ZCO, S&B, etc. so the odds of getting one that don't track are a bit slim, but I did have a schmidt bender on my match gun that got beat up pretty good over a period of several years, and had to send it in because the erector springs had weakened and started tracking weird, but I was able to figure that out without a box drill and they fixed it under warranty.

To be clear, I'm not saying don't do box drills, I'm saying is that if you're not skilled enough to control all the variables and eliminate error/variable stacking, you can get really bad data out of box drills

 

[HawkDriverJD]

One of my favorite topics! A great question is how crazy do you want to get with it?
I’m by no means an expert unlike some of the distinguished individuals here but in my humble opinion that’s an important question to ask yourself.

The Tika is a great platform with TONS of options. Are you trying to update your whole platform or just add some components to boost your range?

My current long range beast started its life as an off the shelf REM 700 sps almost 20 years agon. It’s been updated and worked on several times throughout the years. It’s recently been rechambered to 6.5CM using a 22” Proof Barrel. It’s now a terrifyingly accurate 3/8 MOA gun!

 

[Terry Houin]

Read through all these replies and unless I miss this there's one thing I didn't see mentioned...
Be careful purchasing a used MOA optic. Many of the older ones had MOA turrets with a mil based reticle. While usable, It was the dumbest design ever that required too much Voodoo math but that's what we had at one time. In short, make sure the reticle matches the turrets if buying used.

Facts, no idea why this was common practice and what I learned in Sniper school. I blame it on the Marines.