Thompson Long Range: anyone with experience?

  • Join our community of outdoor enthusiasts! Subscribe to Field Ethos Magazine to unlock full forum access and connect with fellow adventurers sharing their stories, tips, and experiences.

    If you are already a subscriber, log in here.
Renegade_WTX

Renegade_WTX

Member
Back during the ‘Vid, I bought myself a nice Weatherby Mark V Cowpoke edition in .30-378 Weatherby Mag because I was single and I could. Threw a Leupold VX5-HD 3-15x44 on it, so far killed one Aoudad with it. Guy at work was desperate for a scope, so sold him mine and made some money on the deal.

Moving forward, I discovered Thompson Long Range had a school with this chambering, and the same optic, but with a custom reticle. Has anyone here purchased just the optic, and if so what’s your thoughts? I’m shooting 180gr Barnes TTSX in factory Weatherby loads thru it. I like the CDS from Leupold, but the idea of not having to worry about dialing all the time is appealing to me. IMG_1942.jpegIMG_9207.jpegA285ED00-88E7-4C27-A6E4-9CA415EDFD10.jpeg
 
Cool set up, no experience with the TLR school but watching their vids it looks like the dudes are no=nonsense connected to folks at Leupold in the glass build. Very cool.
 
I have zero experience with Thompson Long Range... But, I've been shooting hold over reticles for a minute or two... With ANY hold-over reticle, a guy would be wise to make sure there is enough magnification in the scope to make the target large enough that the target is "compatible" with subtension of the particular reticle being used... Best way to determine what will work, and what might not work as well, is to get behind a few different scopes with a few different reticles and see how they look on the type of targets you'll be shooting. If you go too low on the magnification, or have too small of a target that is too far away...holdover can get a little tricky, especially if the hold ends up between lines and there is wind involved. And, with higher magnification, a guy sacrifices field of view...which, I found to be a particular pain in the ass hunting coues deer... Like any tool, the more you use whatever you choose, the more effective you'll be with it, but there's a limit. I started spinning knobs back in the day, I switched to H59's for a long time, and I have gone back to knobs, especially for hunting. Just works better for me when all factors are considered. NF does a nice job of combining knobs and reticles...but, having both adds weight to the scope...and...a guy has to remember which one he's using...it's not impossible to get crossed up. Hold over reticles are great if you have a bunch of targets at various distances and you want to adjust quickly, and don't mind sacrificing a little precision and FOV... That's just my $0.02, and it won't get you a shitty cup of coffee most places, so take it for what it's worth.
 
Steve Johnson said:
I have zero experience with Thompson Long Range... But, I've been shooting hold over reticles for a minute or two... With ANY hold-over reticle, a guy would be wise to make sure there is enough magnification in the scope to make the target large enough that the target is "compatible" with subtension of the particular reticle being used... Best way to determine what will work, and what might not work as well, is to get behind a few different scopes with a few different reticles and see how they look on the type of targets you'll be shooting. If you go too low on the magnification, or have too small of a target that is too far away...holdover can get a little tricky, especially if the hold ends up between lines and there is wind involved. And, with higher magnification, a guy sacrifices field of view...which, I found to be a particular pain in the ass hunting coues deer... Like any tool, the more you use whatever you choose, the more effective you'll be with it, but there's a limit. I started spinning knobs back in the day, I switched to H59's for a long time, and I have gone back to knobs, especially for hunting. Just works better for me when all factors are considered. NF does a nice job of combining knobs and reticles...but, having both adds weight to the scope...and...a guy has to remember which one he's using...it's not impossible to get crossed up. Hold over reticles are great if you have a bunch of targets at various distances and you want to adjust quickly, and don't mind sacrificing a little precision and FOV... That's just my $0.02, and it won't get you a shitty cup of coffee most places, so take it for what it's worth.
Click to expand...
I preciate your 2 cents! That’ll buy at least 3 cups at my house.

I’m not a bonafide long range shooter by any means. I’ve consistently killed animals from 100-800 with a simple duplex 3-9x, but that’s on a rifle that I’ve shot so many times I could probably achieve the same shots blindfolded (for 15 years it’s the only scoped rifle I hunted with). I’ve since moved on to adding more to my arsenal, and have toyed with different optics. I’m not a huge fan of a “busy” field of view, but have also found dialing not to be my favorite. Reckon I need to pick my poison. I like your idea of getting behind different glass, and have been doing so with my buddies rifles.

The TLR reticle appeals to me for my intent: get so comfortable with the rifle that the holdovers are just for reference, and myself and the rifle can complete the job. My main holdup with knobs is watching buddies miss opportunities by trying to dial in, which I feel could be beaten by just having a holdover. Flipside of that coin, if they spent enough time on the turrets I guess the same could be achieved.

I appreciate the input! May have to purchase a turret style for my 26 Nosler now so I can see which I prefer 🤔
 
Renegade_WTX said:
I preciate your 2 cents! That’ll buy at least 3 cups at my house.

I’m not a bonafide long range shooter by any means. I’ve consistently killed animals from 100-800 with a simple duplex 3-9x, but that’s on a rifle that I’ve shot so many times I could probably achieve the same shots blindfolded (for 15 years it’s the only scoped rifle I hunted with). I’ve since moved on to adding more to my arsenal, and have toyed with different optics. I’m not a huge fan of a “busy” field of view, but have also found dialing not to be my favorite. Reckon I need to pick my poison. I like your idea of getting behind different glass, and have been doing so with my buddies rifles.

The TLR reticle appeals to me for my intent: get so comfortable with the rifle that the holdovers are just for reference, and myself and the rifle can complete the job. My main holdup with knobs is watching buddies miss opportunities by trying to dial in, which I feel could be beaten by just having a holdover. Flipside of that coin, if they spent enough time on the turrets I guess the same could be achieved.

I appreciate the input! May have to purchase a turret style for my 26 Nosler now so I can see which I prefer 🤔
Click to expand...
Anytime on the input; it's my pleasure and I appreciate the kind words. My "tisim" gets away from me at times... lol Trigger time and getting behind a bunch of different rigs was the only way I could answer the "dial or hold" question in my own head, and it took time and hunting trips. Hold-over reticles def have a place in long range work. The only caveat is that scope magnification is high enough to achieve the required degree of precision given the target size. Coues deer are little shits compared to elk, etc, and need a bunch of X to see/shoot them which means FOV shrinks...then they step behind yuccas and shit...big X can be a double edged sword. lol There are a thousand hairs a guy can split, when the rubber meets the road, that old saying - "beware the man with one rifle, he likely knows how to use it" - always comes to mind. Those fast 6.5's are awesome. I run a 264WM in an old M70 and a hot rod Swede I built on a Mexican Mauser. Your 26 Nosler and a real good scope would be an absolute riot to take hunting....and that Weatherby in the pic...that is one cool looking rig; I love the color scheme. One other thing...on dialing getting "messy"...some of my favorite scopes for shooting out to 1000-ish are good old Leupold Mark 4's, with M2 or M3 knobs; 1/2MOA and 1MOA respectively. There's a lot less dialing and it all happens inside one rotation, and they have zero stops, etc. IMO, they max out scale of "simple and capable" if I'm planning to shoot 500 or beyond, I will have an old Mark 4 or an NF depending on which bullet I'm sending. I don't believe Leupold builds them anymore, but I see them pop up on GB and eBay from time to time... adding a link... the convo got me curious and I took a look at eBay and ran across a good one.

 
Last edited:
It looks like they use a BDC reticle in the 2nd focal plane, outdated in my opinion. Me personally I would take a hard pass for several reasons.
1. You're married to that specific load and magnification setting
2. If you want to change mag power on your scope your hold overs will all be wrong
3. The reticle does not match your turret, KISS(keep it simple stupid) applies here

If you were to get the scope with Impact-29 or TMOA you have the option of either dialing or hold over or even both. Lets say you dial 11 moa for a 650yd shot and hit 12" low you can easily add 2 moa hold over using just the reticle without dialing for a fast follow up.

Again 2nd focal you'll need to be on max power of your optic for your sub tensions to be correct, this is why I always recommend a 1st focal optic for long range shooting

@Terry Houin any input?
 
Renegade_WTX said:
I preciate your 2 cents! That’ll buy at least 3 cups at my house.

I’m not a bonafide long range shooter by any means. I’ve consistently killed animals from 100-800 with a simple duplex 3-9x, but that’s on a rifle that I’ve shot so many times I could probably achieve the same shots blindfolded (for 15 years it’s the only scoped rifle I hunted with). I’ve since moved on to adding more to my arsenal, and have toyed with different optics. I’m not a huge fan of a “busy” field of view, but have also found dialing not to be my favorite. Reckon I need to pick my poison. I like your idea of getting behind different glass, and have been doing so with my buddies rifles.

The TLR reticle appeals to me for my intent: get so comfortable with the rifle that the holdovers are just for reference, and myself and the rifle can complete the job. My main holdup with knobs is watching buddies miss opportunities by trying to dial in, which I feel could be beaten by just having a holdover. Flipside of that coin, if they spent enough time on the turrets I guess the same could be achieved.

I appreciate the input! May have to purchase a turret style for my 26 Nosler now so I can see which I prefer 🤔
Click to expand...
Personally for precision work, and shooting animals, I'm not a fan of "Kentucky windage" or "holdovers"... I do prefer mil-dot reticles but I primarily use them for judging antler size, etc. (i.e., 1 mil = 18 inches at 500 yards). About the only time I do any Kentucky windage is for exactly that, accounting for windage (i.e. an animal walking at distance, winds across distance, etc )... For my come-ups I prefer to use the elevation turret, but a lot of scopes can't/don't precisely adjust.
A simple test is from a good sand bag rest from a bench, fire one shot from a zeroed rifle at 100 yards... Then raise the elevation 1 inch and fire another... Then adjust the windage one inch to the right and fire another, then come down an inch and fire another, then adjust windage to the left one inch and fire another... We called them "box drills" and damn few scopes can actually do it. I don't know if TLRs can actually or not but some major manufacturer's can't.

My preference (with a scope that can repeatedly perform box drills like the NF ATACR or Vortex Razor) is to shoot the rifle at various distances between 100 and a few hundred yards using TWO chronographs with your favorite load. One Chrono is at the muzzle of your rifle, and the other chrono is at the target downrange... This way I get my average muzzle velocity and my average actual velocity downrange. While I'm doing all this, I record the temperature, elevation I'm shooting at (sea -level, whatever) and then I provide all that data to one of the better BDC turret manufacturers and have them create a BDC turret for your cartridge based on the actual velocities out of your barrel at the elevation, etc. You have it sighted in for.. in a few weeks you'll get the new turret, swap it out on your scope then go test it.

I did that for my Vortex on my 300 RUM.. now when I range something at 600 yards I just dial the turret to the number 6 and unless there's some major environmental factors (wind, extreme angle (down or up), extreme temperature, driving rain, etc)... the rifle hits pretty close to center at 600 yards.. I've used my turret out to 1,000 yards at the Yakima Training Center and the JBLM Range.

Using a BDC turret made for your specific load by a reputable manufacturer is a solid way to go and it doesn't get much simpler.. but take the time to get the information right up front... Garbage in will get you garbage out... And if your scope can't do box drills to begin with, your screwed to begin with and anything you try will just be "luck and chance" after that.. and I don't like to rely on luck or chance.

Many reticles, especially duplex reticles, etc. make it virtually impossible to accurately "hold over" anything as the reticle themselves cover a few inches downrange, plus add mirage, hair line vs actual body and tissue, etc., human error.. And it quickly becomes a "guessing" game..

We tried to do holdovers on the sniper team and we quickly learned for "hostage rescue" or precision shots where missing isn't an option holdovers are not an option, period...

I can't say enough about getting a BDC turret made for your actual load out of your actual rifle. Then it's just as simple as dialing the number for whatever yardage you are shooting.
 
Steve Johnson said:
Anytime on the input; it's my pleasure and I appreciate the kind words. My "tisim" gets away from me at times... lol Trigger time and getting behind a bunch of different rigs was the only way I could answer the "dial or hold" question in my own head, and it took time and hunting trips. Hold-over reticles def have a place in long range work. The only caveat is that scope magnification is high enough to achieve the required degree of precision given the target size. Coues deer are little shits compared to elk, etc, and need a bunch of X to see/shoot them which means FOV shrinks...then they step behind yuccas and shit...big X can be a double edged sword. lol There are a thousand hairs a guy can split, when the rubber meets the road, that old saying - "beware the man with one rifle, he likely knows how to use it" - always comes to mind. Those fast 6.5's are awesome. I run a 264WM in an old M70 and a hot rod Swede I built on a Mexican Mauser. Your 26 Nosler and a real good scope would be an absolute riot to take hunting....and that Weatherby in the pic...that is one cool looking rig; I love the color scheme. One other thing...on dialing getting "messy"...some of my favorite scopes for shooting out to 1000-ish are good old Leupold Mark 4's, with M2 or M3 knobs; 1/2MOA and 1MOA respectively. There's a lot less dialing and it all happens inside one rotation, and they have zero stops, etc. IMO, they max out scale of "simple and capable" if I'm planning to shoot 500 or beyond, I will have an old Mark 4 or an NF depending on which bullet I'm sending. I don't believe Leupold builds them anymore, but I see them pop up on GB and eBay from time to time... adding a link... the convo got me curious and I took a look at eBay and ran across a good one.

Click to expand...
Again, I appreciate the feedback! And thanks, the Weatherby really is some eye candy. Can’t wait to spend some more time with the 26 either. It’s got the same VX5 3-15 on it with the CDS turret, just need to spend some time behind it.
 
Al Shifty Schultz said:
Personally for precision work, and shooting animals, I'm not a fan of "Kentucky windage" or "holdovers"... I do prefer mil-dot reticles but I primarily use them for judging antler size, etc. (i.e., 1 mil = 18 inches at 500 yards). About the only time I do any Kentucky windage is for exactly that, accounting for windage (i.e. an animal walking at distance, winds across distance, etc )... For my come-ups I prefer to use the elevation turret, but a lot of scopes can't/don't precisely adjust.
A simple test is from a good sand bag rest from a bench, fire one shot from a zeroed rifle at 100 yards... Then raise the elevation 1 inch and fire another... Then adjust the windage one inch to the right and fire another, then come down an inch and fire another, then adjust windage to the left one inch and fire another... We called them "box drills" and damn few scopes can actually do it. I don't know if TLRs can actually or not but some major manufacturer's can't.

My preference (with a scope that can repeatedly perform box drills like the NF ATACR or Vortex Razor) is to shoot the rifle at various distances between 100 and a few hundred yards using TWO chronographs with your favorite load. One Chrono is at the muzzle of your rifle, and the other chrono is at the target downrange... This way I get my average muzzle velocity and my average actual velocity downrange. While I'm doing all this, I record the temperature, elevation I'm shooting at (sea -level, whatever) and then I provide all that data to one of the better BDC turret manufacturers and have them create a BDC turret for your cartridge based on the actual velocities out of your barrel at the elevation, etc. You have it sighted in for.. in a few weeks you'll get the new turret, swap it out on your scope then go test it.

I did that for my Vortex on my 300 RUM.. now when I range something at 600 yards I just dial the turret to the number 6 and unless there's some major environmental factors (wind, extreme angle (down or up), extreme temperature, driving rain, etc)... the rifle hits pretty close to center at 600 yards.. I've used my turret out to 1,000 yards at the Yakima Training Center and the JBLM Range.

Using a BDC turret made for your specific load by a reputable manufacturer is a solid way to go and it doesn't get much simpler.. but take the time to get the information right up front... Garbage in will get you garbage out... And if your scope can't do box drills to begin with, your screwed to begin with and anything you try will just be "luck and chance" after that.. and I don't like to rely on luck or chance.

Many reticles, especially duplex reticles, etc. make it virtually impossible to accurately "hold over" anything as the reticle themselves cover a few inches downrange, plus add mirage, hair line vs actual body and tissue, etc., human error.. And it quickly becomes a "guessing" game..

We tried to do holdovers on the sniper team and we quickly learned for "hostage rescue" or precision shots where missing isn't an option holdovers are not an option, period...

I can't say enough about getting a BDC turret made for your actual load out of your actual rifle. Then it's just as simple as dialing the number for whatever yardage you are shooting.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your input! Valuable advice in there, and now I want to try some box drills.

The VX5-HD’s I have are the CDS which has the custom turret option, as you describe. Unsure if Leupold has the quality as other manufacturers you have experience with, but I have one for my 26 Nosler that I need to run through the paces.

I agree with your assessment of “Kentucky windage”. I’d like to clarify I’m not just spraying and praying on those longer shots, if I’m not 100% confident I’m not taking the shot. I usually go out in offseason and set targets on the trails I know I’ll be watching next season, so when I’m hunting I have known reference points of aim. Not foolproof I know, but I’m not just gonna blast away and wound something.

Who are some of the BDC manufacturers you like?
 
Renegade_WTX said:
Thanks for your input! Valuable advice in there, and now I want to try some box drills.

The VX5-HD’s I have are the CDS which has the custom turret option, as you describe. Unsure if Leupold has the quality as other manufacturers you have experience with, but I have one for my 26 Nosler that I need to run through the paces.

I agree with your assessment of “Kentucky windage”. I’d like to clarify I’m not just spraying and praying on those longer shots, if I’m not 100% confident I’m not taking the shot. I usually go out in offseason and set targets on the trails I know I’ll be watching next season, so when I’m hunting I have known reference points of aim. Not foolproof I know, but I’m not just gonna blast away and wound something.

Who are some of the BDC manufacturers you like?
Click to expand...
I like Kenton Industries..


But I want to reiterate that if the scope can't precisely perform "box drills" putting a ballistic turret on it isn't going to help anything...

Coincidentally just yesterday afternoon a buddy/neighbor was having issues sighting in his rifle and asked if I'd help him. We went out to the range and it was a challenge, but I got it dialed in. It was a challenge because the scope adjustments weren't changing the impacts like they should have been... Then I suggested to him that we do the box drills after I got it zeroed.
He has a Burris Scope and it has 1/4 inch POI adjustments or "clicks".. at 100 yards we adjusted his scope four clicks and it hit nearly 2 1/2 inches high.. we did four clicks right and the bullet impacted 1 1/2 inches right.. we went four clicks down and the impact only changed 1/2 inch... Four clicks left (which should have returned to zero) the impact only changed a half inch and was still hitting high.
My friend became frustrated and stated, "that's good enough" but the reality is ammo is expensive and he can't afford to buy and shoot a bunch, he had just dropped nearly a grand on this scope and he can't afford to replace it, etc. he and I and everyone knows in reality it's not "good enough".

Beware of human error when conducting the box drill and own it if you mif a shot.. Do what you can to get the rifle as steady in a sandbag rest as you can to eliminate human error.. you can't evaluate the preciseness of your equipment if you can't consistently hold it dead steady between and during shots..

Also, chronograph your ammo before doing the box drills.. I chronograph everything, all the time.. I've chronographed a lot of different ammo and I've found as much as 300 fps deviation between rounds out of the same box of ammo.. with that kind of deviation points of impact will drastically change downrange and it's impossible to measure the consistency and accuracy of your scope adjustments when each round is traveling at a different velocity...

Distance shooting is dependent upon consistency.. it requires that you physically be consistent, that your ammunition be consistent (bullet weight, velocity, etc ) that your scope adjustments be consistent.. and that's not even discussing the environmental factors..
But without consistency under ideal conditions, you haven't got a prayer in the field after introducing environmental factors..

Also, after you're all done and zeroed in, the next day or another day, go out and conduct a cold bore shot.. many guys spend a long day at the range and get everything all dialed in only to find that when they go hunting and take the shot the bullet didn't impact where it should have.. that's because they zeroed their rifle with a warm barrel that probably was pretty fouled after a day of shooting.
Another day go back and fire a cold bore shot, then on a separate target shoot a group.. note if and how much the POI changes.. you need to know this information. All hunting, and most sniping is conducted by a cold bore shot..

I've attached a picture of one of my targets when I was a Sniper Instructor. The one on the left is my cold bore shot, the one on the right is my five shot group immediately after.. note the POI change...

The other pic that looks like a mini explosion 💥 went off is where I did a demo on my cold bore shot shooting the primer on a live 308 cartridge that I had poked through the corner of the target so just the head/primer end of the cartridge was visible..

The dime is just another example of demonstrating the precision you can obtain with a cold bore shot under ideal conditions when everything is consistent.. when you know where your cold bore shot is going to hit precisely, it's easy to tape a dime there and put a bullet through it.. (all of these targets in these pictures were at 100 yards, so nothing very far. But equipment, and fundamentals can be tested and evaluated easily at 100 yds. If you can't do it at 100 you sure as hell can't do it at 500 or 1,000.

Hopefully this little novella helped 🤣
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20190513_115551.jpg
    IMG_20190513_115551.jpg
    2.1 MB · Views: 2
  • IMG_20180619_135446.jpg
    IMG_20180619_135446.jpg
    1.4 MB · Views: 2
  • IMG_20180621_104936.jpg
    IMG_20180621_104936.jpg
    1.2 MB · Views: 2
When considering your ballistic information NEVER rely on the velocities printed on the box by the manufacturer... That's all bullshit and rarely will be what you see out of your rifle.. if you're relying on the printed velocity on the box and don't chronograph what's actually coming out of your rifle you're going to be disappointed downrange.
 
Al Shifty Schultz said:
When considering your ballistic information NEVER rely on the velocities printed on the box by the manufacturer... That's all bullshit and rarely will be what you see out of your rifle.. if you're relying on the printed velocity on the box and don't chronograph what's actually coming out of your rifle you're going to be disappointed downrange.
Click to expand...
100% Fact!!!
 
Al Shifty Schultz said:
I like Kenton Industries..


But I want to reiterate that if the scope can't precisely perform "box drills" putting a ballistic turret on it isn't going to help anything...

Coincidentally just yesterday afternoon a buddy/neighbor was having issues sighting in his rifle and asked if I'd help him. We went out to the range and it was a challenge, but I got it dialed in. It was a challenge because the scope adjustments weren't changing the impacts like they should have been... Then I suggested to him that we do the box drills after I got it zeroed.
He has a Burris Scope and it has 1/4 inch POI adjustments or "clicks".. at 100 yards we adjusted his scope four clicks and it hit nearly 2 1/2 inches high.. we did four clicks right and the bullet impacted 1 1/2 inches right.. we went four clicks down and the impact only changed 1/2 inch... Four clicks left (which should have returned to zero) the impact only changed a half inch and was still hitting high.
My friend became frustrated and stated, "that's good enough" but the reality is ammo is expensive and he can't afford to buy and shoot a bunch, he had just dropped nearly a grand on this scope and he can't afford to replace it, etc. he and I and everyone knows in reality it's not "good enough".

Beware of human error when conducting the box drill and own it if you mif a shot.. Do what you can to get the rifle as steady in a sandbag rest as you can to eliminate human error.. you can't evaluate the preciseness of your equipment if you can't consistently hold it dead steady between and during shots..

Also, chronograph your ammo before doing the box drills.. I chronograph everything, all the time.. I've chronographed a lot of different ammo and I've found as much as 300 fps deviation between rounds out of the same box of ammo.. with that kind of deviation points of impact will drastically change downrange and it's impossible to measure the consistency and accuracy of your scope adjustments when each round is traveling at a different velocity...

Distance shooting is dependent upon consistency.. it requires that you physically be consistent, that your ammunition be consistent (bullet weight, velocity, etc ) that your scope adjustments be consistent.. and that's not even discussing the environmental factors..
But without consistency under ideal conditions, you haven't got a prayer in the field after introducing environmental factors..

Also, after you're all done and zeroed in, the next day or another day, go out and conduct a cold bore shot.. many guys spend a long day at the range and get everything all dialed in only to find that when they go hunting and take the shot the bullet didn't impact where it should have.. that's because they zeroed their rifle with a warm barrel that probably was pretty fouled after a day of shooting.
Another day go back and fire a cold bore shot, then on a separate target shoot a group.. note if and how much the POI changes.. you need to know this information. All hunting, and most sniping is conducted by a cold bore shot..

I've attached a picture of one of my targets when I was a Sniper Instructor. The one on the left is my cold bore shot, the one on the right is my five shot group immediately after.. note the POI change...

The other pic that looks like a mini explosion 💥 went off is where I did a demo on my cold bore shot shooting the primer on a live 308 cartridge that I had poked through the corner of the target so just the head/primer end of the cartridge was visible..

The dime is just another example of demonstrating the precision you can obtain with a cold bore shot under ideal conditions when everything is consistent.. when you know where your cold bore shot is going to hit precisely, it's easy to tape a dime there and put a bullet through it.. (all of these targets in these pictures were at 100 yards, so nothing very far. But equipment, and fundamentals can be tested and evaluated easily at 100 yds. If you can't do it at 100 you sure as hell can't do it at 500 or 1,000.

Hopefully this little novella helped 🤣
Click to expand...
Once again, thanks immensely! Wealth of knowledge in your posts. I do currently zero for a cold bore, however have never paid attention to where the POI shift is in subsequent groups. Seems like such an easy thing to think about remembering, but I’ve overlooked it so far. Not anymore!
 
Renegade_WTX said:
Thanks for your input! Valuable advice in there, and now I want to try some box drills.

The VX5-HD’s I have are the CDS which has the custom turret option, as you describe. Unsure if Leupold has the quality as other manufacturers you have experience with, but I have one for my 26 Nosler that I need to run through the paces.

I agree with your assessment of “Kentucky windage”. I’d like to clarify I’m not just spraying and praying on those longer shots, if I’m not 100% confident I’m not taking the shot. I usually go out in offseason and set targets on the trails I know I’ll be watching next season, so when I’m hunting I have known reference points of aim. Not foolproof I know, but I’m not just gonna blast away and wound something.

Who are some of the BDC manufacturers you like?
Click to expand...
If/when something doesn't seem "right" with a Leupold, contact their customer service. Top notch.
 
Milo'sSyndicate said:
If/when something doesn't seem "right" with a Leupold, contact their customer service. Top notch.
Click to expand...
Word to that! My cousin had an issue with one of their range finders. Can’t remember specifics, but it had to be damaged for them to honor the warranty. He sent them a video of him crushing it on his hydraulic press, got a new one in the mail the next week 😂
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

chrisbjones0401
Restless Custom Build Syndrome
Replies
13
Views
132
Wade Burns
Wade Burns
G
Long Range Shooting!
2 3
Replies
40
Views
546
gelhaargerald
G
fletcher8732
Gun Range Gripes
Replies
3
Views
87
David Simerly
David Simerly
F
Locked Down to Go Long
Replies
0
Views
81
Field Ethos
F
Jackalope Wrangler
Ask Terry Houin Practice Rifle for Long Range/NRL hunter/hunting use
Replies
4
Views
170
Terry Houin
Terry Houin
Back
Top